PenfoldsMagill Estate Shiraz 2017

"Frukten i Magill Estate Shiraz har sin hemmahamn i Penfolds allra första vingård i Adeleide från 1844 och vinet har numera stabiliserat sig på en konsekvent hög kvalitetsnivå med sina numera smått cabernet sauvignonaktiga vindar med ceder, tobak och cassis i den mörka shirazskymningen. Det har gett vinet mer stringens och större elegans sett till nutid. Här transparent kraft i årgången med luftig intensitet i den mörkbäriga frukten där det då ligger en rödnyanserad elegant skärpa som skapar ett juicy frukttillstånd och ett syrligt par- spel med den mörka fruktens mognare sötma där faten bidrar med en snyggt mjuk vanilj/fudge. Mynta, lakrits och basilika färgar de vegetala och för årgången smått skogiga yttringarna. Allt är mycket elegant och balanserat och vinet har den där perfekta känslan av att det kan intas nu likväl som om 20 år utan att förlora sin gunst.

Attractive wet stones and almost flinty notes, ahead of a very refined core of spice-wrapped red and black cherries, as well as praline and toffee. The palate has a very succulent feel. The acidity sits up in vibrant style and there’s a fine, succulent and long, refined finish. Oak rides up, but this always needs time after release. There’s replanting in the 5-ish hectare plot, so quantities are low for a spell here.

The red-fruited 2017 Magill Estate Shiraz comes across as open and generous, with notes of raspberries and cherries accented by hints of charred meat and dried spices. It´s medium to full-bodied in the context of the Penfolds red-wine lineup (so full-bodied, to be honest), with crisp acids and a bright, slightly dusty finish. To its credit, it´s distinctively different from the various other Shiraz offerings from Penfolds.

While St Henri is atypical for its lack of new oak, so Magill - derived from a single estate - belies the dominant Penfolds cross-regional philosophy. Deep, dark and youthfully primary in colour, this single-vineyard red shows elegantly spicy, floral and peppery Shiraz aromatics. This is followed by an initially seductively silky texture behind the savoury tapenade and peppery dark berry fruit quality, which is currently grasped within a fist of sinewy tannins. The tannins soften down towards the finale, suggesting rather encouragingly that it´s a more medium-bodied wine than full-on Penfolds. And so, with food, this will be approachable relatively early. Which food? Roast leg of lamb with anchovy, garlic and rosemary of course!